tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40399882050917519352024-02-07T16:10:00.786-08:00Two Brothers TalesLittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-48752663170171405982016-08-21T18:33:00.000-07:002016-08-21T18:33:27.027-07:00Shambling ForwardThings have slowed down a bit due to a camping trip, but I have finished a couple Crawler lairs, the Razor Fiend, and a few Shamblers. The latter are fairly quick to paint up and I'm hoping finish them by next weekend and start work on the Soulless and Lairs. I hope to follow up with the Agents and a few Alt Heroes and then take a short break from Myth.<br />
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I managed to get a game of <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43443/castle-panic">Castle Panic</a> in with my wife, she seemed to enjoy it at first, but seemed a bit underwhelmed by the ease with which we won at the end. If she up to it again a later date I'll introduce the Wizard's Tower expansion. I think this is a good learning co-op game, but I like Elder Sign and <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/102652/sentinels-multiverse">SoTM</a> a bit better. I also made it out to my local game group and got a game of <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/154203/imperial-settlers">Imperial Settlers</a> in with a friend of mine and another gamer. My friend as Japan, and myself as Rome had a close run of it, having played before. I really enjoy this tableau building game, it's amazing how much your faction grows in 5 turns. We also played my friends game <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/171233/big-book-madness">Big Book of Madness</a>. This was a pretty fun Co-op that had a sort of Harry Potter meets Elder Sign vibe. I'd definitely play it again.<br />
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Starbase Orion continues to entertain, and I feel I'm getting a better handle on certain aspects of it. I also picked up <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/53093/heroes-normandie">Heroes of Normandie</a> at the <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/heroes-of-normandie/id935248296?ls=1&mt=8">app store</a>, but unfortunately it doesn't work on iPad2, although I can play it on my phone. This game and it's Cthulhu based <a href="https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/162351/shadows-over-normandie">Shadows over Normandie</a> have replaced my 15mm Sci-Fi miniatures. The iOS implementation is pretty good, although I think the some rules like for machine guns are different. I just wish I could play it on a bigger screen, as it can be difficult to read some of the iconography.<br />
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<br />Fractured Lotushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12354964276628503317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-8158427693176497242016-07-23T10:09:00.000-07:002016-07-23T10:54:57.087-07:00Myth & More So, last weekend I visited my parents up in Michigan. We got a couple games of <a href="https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148228/splendor">Splendor</a> in. My Mother enjoyed the game quite a bit, and my wife found it "okay". I think this game lives up to its reputation as an excellent Gateway Game.<br />
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On the mini front I've been finishing up most of my Myth base game figures. I'd say the figure I'm happiest with is Yardu, and the one I'm least excited about is the female archer. I need to work on how to properly paint eyes. I've been trying to learn from some of <a href="http://megacongames.com/community/#/discussion/1580/video-painting-tips">Ghool's</a> excellent videos. I'm close to finishing up 3 Muckers, and some Lairs by next week.<br />
My current tally is:<br />
The Terror with a Thousand Legs<br />
Yardu<br />
20 Crawlers<br />
20 Grubbers<br />
1 Muckers<br />
4 Stalkers<br />
6 Heroes<br />
5 Shamblers<br />
1 Soulless<br />
<br />
Starbase Orion continues to entertain. We are on our second conflict, us vs 4 AI in a spiral galaxy. It's a pretty challenging map, as chasing one enemy up his arm of the spiral leaves your arm and the center vulnerable. I'm having a lot of trouble utilizing the different weapon techs effectively. My brother seems to have a bit better of a grasp on it.<br />
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<br />Fractured Lotushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12354964276628503317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-36387122817662634422016-07-10T18:37:00.000-07:002016-07-23T10:55:39.999-07:00I live, I die, I live again!Well, it's been awhile, but I'm going to try to resurrect this blog. I played a couple board games this week. One weekday night I played <a href="https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37628/haggis">Haggis</a> with my wife and a friend, and then Chess with my wife over the weekend. It was my first time playing the former, and I think we all found it a little difficult to wrap our heads around. It was enjoyable though and I'd love to play it again. It was probably the first time in almost decade I've played Chess, and I feel like that is a bad thing. I also tried to teach the wife <a href="https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/154203/imperial-settlers">Imperial Settlers</a>, which didn't goo so well. It's as good as any of my more modern games. On the miniature front, I was able to get a little work done on <a href="https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/140519/myth">Myth</a>, in particular the Crawlers and Grubbers. Photos to soon follow. My brother and I have taken to playing <a href="http://www.chimerasw.com/starbaseorion/">Starbase Orion</a> on the iPad, and that is allowing us to relive all those great moments from MOO when we were kids.Fractured Lotushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12354964276628503317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-45001695921168293682014-02-21T18:20:00.000-08:002014-02-21T18:28:58.162-08:00Splintered Light Adventurers I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A thanks to David from Splintered Light Miniatures for putting together a few adventurer parties for me. He was great about meeting my request, and the miniatures arrived in just a few days. They were a lot of fun to paint. In addition to providing me with the fighters, thieves, priests, mages, dwarves and elves (I had requested a few of each), he added a pair of halflings and a pair of gnomes that were unreleased at the time. Here is my first party, a human ranger, a gnome fighter, a elven mage, and a halfling rogue. The gnomes and halflings are excellent. I hope that they do more of the gnomes especially.LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-16955165293804611162014-02-19T19:07:00.000-08:002014-02-19T19:26:18.553-08:00Running the Gauntlet - 15mm ARR using FUBAR with a tweak<i>Ameos cursed inside his helmet. The Riavaui had laid a perfect
trap, attacking the colony, hiding their true numbers until his unit had
fully deployed, scattered across the area, and were saddled with hundreds of
helpless colonists to protect. Now the fleet was fully engaged, and there was no
ticket off this rock, and the Riavaui were swarming all over the
place. </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>He could hear the captain's orders coming over his headset, and could
see the feed from the recon drones on his retinal display. "All right
men, change of plans. We've got multiple hostiles coming from
all directions. Time for a fighting withdraw." </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
This game was played with the 4th edition of the FUBAR rules, with one
change. The activation rules were replaced with what I call the Keep
Your Cool check. Every unit activates every turn, regardless if they
pass their activation roll. But if they fall, their actions were
randomly determined using the following table and a D6 roll:<br />
<br />
1. Fire if nearest enemy unit is in range and LOS, otherwise move 6 toward objective<br />
2. Assault nearest enemy if within 8, otherwise run 12 toward objective<br />
3. Duck & Weave toward object<br />
4. On Guard<br />
5. Gone to Ground<br />
6. Hesitate - does nothing this turn<br />
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The forces were:<br />
2 Squads of 5 Veteran Marines, Heavy Armor (3+), Assault Rifles<br />
<br />
3 Squads of 5 Seasoned Raivaui Thralls, Tough Skin (5+), Assault Rifles <br />
1 Squad of Raivaui Hounds, (Used rules for Bugs from FUBAR Sci Fi)<br />
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The
Marines were trying to escape off the far side of the board. The
Raivaui deployed on the board edges to either side of them.<br />
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Both squads of marines duck and wove their way forward staying in cover. Two of the Raivaui squads opened fire on the lead squad of marines, while the third entered the stream as they moved into a firing position. The hounds ran toward the closest marines.<br />
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The hounds moved first in the next turn and attacked, resulting in a vicious melee. The other 3 squads of Raivaui all poured fire onto the other marines, failing to kill any, but the heavy barrage of fire caused them to lose their cool and Hesitate, losing their turn. The melee, lasted several turns until finally the hounds had been killed, taking two marines with them. The first squad regained their cool, and continued forward under heavy fire. Their armor and the cover provided by the terrain prevented them from taking causalities.<br />
<br />
Then one of the Raivaui lost its cool and assaulted the first squad. Following suit another squad assaulted the second. Although the Raivaui shooting had suppressed the marines, it was not effective at killing them. Maybe up-close and personal it would be different. <br />
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The brutal close combat lasted a couple of turns, with the third Raivaui squad standing by on guard to see the outcome. The marines came out on top, with four men left in the first squad, and only one in the second. Wasting no time, the remaining Raivaui opened fire, and suppressing the lead marines and causing them to lose their cool two turns in a row. They cautiously crossed the stream under fire, and then sprinted to safety off the board, leaving the sole survivor of the second squad behind.<br />
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Weighing his choices, and having killed four Raivaui already, he decided to make straight for safety. The Raivaui moved to cut him off, opening up with withering fire.<br />
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Moving forward under the cover of the rock formations, he sprinted across the stream and into the woods to safety, while the Raivaui bullets simply bounced off his armor.<br />
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Half the marines made it to safety in the end, their superior training and armor really making them difficult to kill. Although the Raivaui were effective in suppressing them, and making the marines lose their cool, it was almost impossible to kill them with firing. Close combat proved to be more lethal, eliminating the advantage of soaking up damage by opting to be suppressed. Over all I think the random actions generated when failing the activation/keeping your cool check did a good job of simulating units forgetting their training, ignoring orders, panicking etc.<br />
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Here is the box: <br />
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Drawing inspiration from Tiny Solitary Soldiers, and War in a Box, we wanted something that was small, modular, and capable of a wide variety of sit-ups. The box above is 13" x 13" and about 3 inches tall. That is a 15mm mini from Khurasan in the picture for scale.<br />
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Inside we have a variety of hills made from cork board. The larger ones have a flat edge allowing them to be butted together to form a single large hill, or to be placed along the board edge as separate hills. Most of the smaller hills sit nicely atop the big ones to add additional relief when desired.<br />
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In addition to the hills, we've got four 12 x 12 tiles that form our skirmish board. As you can see each tiles has a section of a stream on it, and they can be rotated to make different combinations.<br />
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In addition the back of each tile is also finished, allowing us to flip the tiles to create a large variety of different playing surfaces. I've coated each tile in several layers of PVA glue to create a tough finish. We also have gotten some scrap fabric that goes in between the tiles when they are in the box.<br />
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To finish off what is in the set at the moment, there is a small bag of shrubs and other vegetation. Hopefully this will make a nice board for small 15mm sci-fi and fantasy skirmishes, as well as our board for some 6mm MechaWar. Altogether this was about $35 USD, including the plastic box to carry everything in. So there it is, let us know what you think! <br />
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<br />LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-47324669215610706352014-02-14T18:14:00.000-08:002014-02-14T18:14:00.057-08:00Catching up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So my brother tells me I'm slacking off and should be posting any progress I'm making in our hobbies. Well on the 15mm front I've been trying to get some help for my <a href="http://shop.groundzerogames.co.uk/">Ground Zero Games</a> (GZG) New Israeli Army. I decided to use some of <a href="http://combatwombatminiatures.com/new_page_1.htm">Combat Wombat</a>'s excellent Grizzly APCs and Lancer Tanks.<br />
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Hopefully these will perform admirably in our future games of FUBAR.<br />
I also have been pretty busy painting up some GZG Phalon for Full Thrust. I got a starter fleet with my post Xmas discount. (Thanks GZG!). I still need to finish my frigates and scouts for this fleet.<br />
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Mat by Hotz Mats<br />
I also have been slowly converting my FSE, UNSC, and WC ships over to Corsec Engineering bases. I have found these to help not just with establishing firing arcs, but they also save space for storage.Which means I have more room for more ships! I have found that the flush mounts fit most of my human ships better. I've got almost all of my FSE converted except a few escorts.<br />
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I ran out of flush mounts after I got a few of my UNSC Capitol ships done.<br />
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Looking forward I'm going to try to finish up my escorts for all three fleets. Then move on to some 15mm fantasy my brother gave me months ago to paint up.<br />
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Outside of miniatures I've been playing lots of Warhammer Quest, Ascension, and Lords of Waterdeep on my iPad. I've also been reading the Mistborn Trilogy by Brandon Sanderson.<br />
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<br />Fractured Lotushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12354964276628503317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-68693415331362302222014-02-11T07:02:00.000-08:002014-02-11T07:05:38.810-08:00From the murky depths emerges...<span style="font-family: inherit;">From the murky depths of my painting desk emerges ... band of Salamen!</span> <br />
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Well, er, at least part of a band!Here is the start of my 15mm Salamander men from Khurasan. These minis have a lot of character, and were really fun to paint. I've got another 9 almost done, so hopefully this weekend I will be ready to play a couple skirmish games. We tried Song of Blades and Heroes last time, I am not sure if we will stick with that or try something different. It is very much a push-your-luck mechanic, which my brother really liked. For these guys one thing I've thought about is that instead of giving them tail-slap or similar abilities, it might make a fun game where if they end their turn in water, you replace the model with a pair of counters/blips, one representing the actual model and the other a dummy. They would be revealed only when the model moves out of the water... has anyone tried this sort of mechanic before? It would give a very different feel to the way they play and the strategy could be totally different than a normal skirmish. I see these guys coming out of the water, sniping their opponents, and then slipping back under the water's murky surface.<br />
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Which brings me to another project that I've been working on that is almost done: another 2x2 skirmish board. This one will again be modular, but will represent a landscape with a river running through it. The linear water feature might make it challenging to guess where those salamanders are swimming!<br />
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Here is the start, again they will be a type of cork tile glued to a 12x12 commercial vinyl tile. The commercial tiles are 1/8 of an inch thick and way more rigid than a normal tile. Armstrong is the brand I've been using, they are $0.60 each at the hardware store.LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-72188096683913103762014-02-01T14:28:00.000-08:002014-02-01T14:28:41.825-08:00Khurasan Power ArmorWell I had a bit of a set back during the holidays, when most of my paints accidentally were left outside and froze. Some were unaffected, but others were completely ruined. So I had to wait for some new paints to arrive before I could start on my next project: painting some 15mm humans for skirmish games. <br />
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Here are some power armored soldiers I've been working on. When I am done there will be 15 men altogether.<br />
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These are some great figures that paint up really nice. I had started them before the "Paint Incident" and I think they are turning out OK. I've really been inspired lately to play small scale skirmish. One reason are the excellent 2x2 boards that Spacejacker has been making over at Tiny Solitary Soldiers. They look great, and in addition to taking up less space, being less expensive etc, having the small board, I like that you can make boards fairly quickly and have a wider variety of themes.<br />
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I've also been thinking a lot about the excellent PC game that was kicking around for a while, Laser Squad Nemesis. It was similar to X-COM, a turn-based tactical game where each player had a squad troops. It was a lot of fun, and had a lot of depth, despite having only 8 or so troop types/options for each faction. I would like my skirmishes to have a similar feel, and I will be focusing on painting up a couple factions each with only half a dozen troop options. It seems like most mini rule sets get bogged down in details and special rules. Really good scenarios and interesting terrain make up a huge part of a game, IMHO. So we will see if we can come up with some of those as well.LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-80197077231508468862013-12-29T06:43:00.000-08:002013-12-29T07:10:34.578-08:00AAR 15mm FUBAR Krystrial vs. New IsraeliWe played our first couple games using the modular caverns over the holidays. My brother used his GZG New Israeli's, while I fielded some of Micropanzer's Krystrial Empire. We placed a damaged tracked drone in the middle of the caverns. This automated robot had been sent by the Israeli's to covertly recon a subterranean installation. After completing its survey it was discovered and damaged before it was able to complete its data transmission. Before it could be destroyed it escaped into the tunnels. The data received in the partial transmission was concerning enough that the Israeli's decided to send in a recovery team to download the drone's memory manually. The Krystrial Overlord also wanted to know exactly what the drone had discovered, and dispatched his men to recover it.<br />
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Scenario Objectives: The drone was set up in the middle of the table, at the beginning of each turn it moved 1d6 inches in a random direction. If a model from either side was in contact, it no longer moved and once per turn the model could try to download the memory file on a 4+. Then the model with the download had to move off the board through a passage on his side.<br />
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The New Israeli's had a two anti-grav drones and a three spider drones. They also had two 6 man fire-teams with four riflemen, a LMG and a RPG in each team. The drones proved to be very tough and very reliable. <br />
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The Krystrial had four fire teams, each with four models. There were 12 Raivaui armed with laser weapons which made up up 3 of the teams, and 4 veteran Krystrial soldiers with shotguns.<br />
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We played the scenario a couple of times using different map configurations. The tight narrow corridors make for some pretty close and deadly combat. My Raivaui managed to reach the drone first in both games. Once in contact, they quickly came under fire while trying to download the data and between suppression, bad rolls, and attempts to get the data would be pinned in the same spot for most of the game, while I maneuvered two teams up to support them, and kept the last to cover their path of retreat.<br />
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Eventually, the combined fire power of the three fire teams caused the New Israel's to fail a few activations, and the team with the data managed to withdraw behind a screen of other fire teams. Both games were pretty close, with the Israeli's drones moving in quickly and making contact before their infantry teams could move into position to support them. The Krystrial Empire took heavier causalities (about 50% each game) while the Israeli's lost a lot of drones.<br />
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<span style="color: lime;">I think if we had at least two more boards with less cover it would improve this kind of scenario. On a 2'x2' board with so much cover the benefits of the laser rifle over the assault rifle are minimized. In addition a 12" run gets you to and from the objective pretty rapidly, especially if the opposition force fails activations. We are using the fourth edition rules + generic sci-fi. </span>LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-49897554917191473972013-12-19T17:32:00.001-08:002013-12-29T07:11:19.649-08:0015mm Caverns - TutorialA couple of folks have asked about how I made the modular caverns, so here is the process I used. First the materials:<br />
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Equipment:<br />
12 inch metal ruler<br />
A cheap paint brush<br />
A permanent marker<br />
A knife<br />
A few containers for mixing glue and/or paint<br />
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A bottle of elmers glue<br />
Two different tones of brown acrylic craft paint ($1.50 each)<br />
One package of Dark Cork Tiles (12 inches by 12 inches) ($9.99 at Hobby Lobby)<br />
4x Armstrong's 1/8 inch thick commercial vinyl flooring tiles (12 inches by 12 inches) ($0.63 each Menards)<br />
A pencil<br />
A piece of graph paper.<br />
Some ballast, sand, grit etc<br />
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These are the vinyl tiles: <br />
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Step 1. Design the tiles on graph paper. I was designing this for 15mm, so I decided to use a 1 inch grid. On each tile edge I nominated squares 3, 6&7, and 10 as potential passage ways, and each edge has an opening at at least two of these locations. This creates at least one open passage between adjacent tiles in any combination. The center passages were two space wide to make corridors for larger based figures.<br />
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The Master Plan: <br />
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The key to keeping it modular is to make sure that your transitions line up at the same point on the grid on all four sides.<br />
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Step 2. Once I had a plan, I used a ruler and marker to draw a grid onto the flooring tiles. I then painted the grid squares where the walls would be with a base coat of the darker paint. I over painted the edges generously so that when I glued the walls down, I wouldn't have to go back and try to get paint under the edge of all of those irregular shaped walls.<br />
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Here is one of the layouts, the X's are to remind me where the walls will be.<br />
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Here is the with where the walls go painted:<br />
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Step 3 - Building the walls. Next I cut the walls out of the cork. I used a knife to keep the edges clean along the corners, so that when pressed against other tiles, they come together nicely. I also was careful to keep all of the openings and passage ways at least one complete grid square open so that you don't end up with passage that you can't fit a base through. Otherwise I wasn't to careful and mostly broke the cork with my hands. I would do one tile, then other three, before coming back to the first after the glue dried to make another layer. I ended up using three layers of cork for all the walls to make them a little taller then a 15mm human.<br />
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Here is the first layer of cork walls:<br />
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Step 4: After the walls were glued into place, I went and painted all the tiles. When the paint dried I used a 50/50 mix of elmers glue and water, brushed on all the passage ways, and sprinkled it with two different size and color ballast/sand. First the large diameter, then the smaller. After that dried I shook off the extra ballast, and dab with a 50/50 mix of glue and water again.<br />
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Step 5. Okay, that's just about it. I then painted the cork with the darker brown, and when it dried dry-brushed it with the lighter brown. Then I covered the whole thing in another layer of 50/50 glue water mix to seal it good.<br />
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There it is! Hope it helps. It has a lot of narrow passages and choke points, so it should be interesting. <br />
<br />LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4039988205091751935.post-19135144949765577002013-12-17T20:08:00.004-08:002013-12-29T07:13:23.823-08:0015mm Caverns<br />
Okay, so you can't afford a lot of nice resin terrain, have a limited space for storage and playing...what are you going to do to get those little men onto the playing field? Here is the first set of modular terrain I am making for gaming with my older brother this winter. It is a set of caverns that will serve double purpose for games of FUBAR and Songs of Blades and Heroes to start with. Here is the first tile:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUnUG2NYqu1cLn51U0OLVwu7ko99ZsXEHBnFrBGv6li4D8XeFh6Wu8yRn8dlb8pEKwUKTi3Y0aze8lKOHF0p-DOv86kt7VmvvZqZ0sXfghWl628Q3mfmj_L7HkmIMWNKKpqQXUQOZyuA/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KwjhAJBK549dDPTrRAo4L_HauWJJfdkUsXuDrU2_aCtAMhZ9fUcVGtr0oDkrBZJNhlQbtcjQU1KgnWL66X5huqmyxU9mLC_8o-6DTbt95fFgGwXjZ-zMcuL4NgTuYkjQ6t26Wtdd6zc/s1600/IMG_1302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KwjhAJBK549dDPTrRAo4L_HauWJJfdkUsXuDrU2_aCtAMhZ9fUcVGtr0oDkrBZJNhlQbtcjQU1KgnWL66X5huqmyxU9mLC_8o-6DTbt95fFgGwXjZ-zMcuL4NgTuYkjQ6t26Wtdd6zc/s320/IMG_1302.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The tiles are 12 x 12 and are completely modular. They can be rotated in any direction and moved around to create different lay-outs. I started with four tiles, total cost per tile was about $3-4 US and took about an hour to make, not including waiting for things to dry. I spent about four hours over the course of a weekend to get them to this point:<br />
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I am working on some doors for Song, and probably some little holes for critters to crawl out of for FUBAR. Here is a shot with a 15mm mini from Splintered Light for scale. Thanks for looking!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUnUG2NYqu1cLn51U0OLVwu7ko99ZsXEHBnFrBGv6li4D8XeFh6Wu8yRn8dlb8pEKwUKTi3Y0aze8lKOHF0p-DOv86kt7VmvvZqZ0sXfghWl628Q3mfmj_L7HkmIMWNKKpqQXUQOZyuA/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUnUG2NYqu1cLn51U0OLVwu7ko99ZsXEHBnFrBGv6li4D8XeFh6Wu8yRn8dlb8pEKwUKTi3Y0aze8lKOHF0p-DOv86kt7VmvvZqZ0sXfghWl628Q3mfmj_L7HkmIMWNKKpqQXUQOZyuA/s320/IMG_1313.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />LittleBrotherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07667824262834621204noreply@blogger.com3